That’s how a $50 problem becomes a $2000 problem
This is how my buddy blew the engine on his insight. It was burning oil so long that it melted the spark plugs. He could have had it fixed for free but he didn’t know about it until that extension had ended.
I actually don’t know what was wrong with it because he never let me take a look for him. I offered to have an engine delivered to my house and me and another friend could have slapped a used engine in.
He was hellbent on buying a new car so he traded it in.
A friend of mine had a very reliable car. Then he had to get new spark plugs and brake pads around the same time. He got tired of the car having “problems” so he got a…used mini cooper.
Used mini cooper LOL
At least he didn’t buy a jeep
BRUH
Exactly. All the memes and stickers about letting the CEL stay on are funny, but if you don’t know what code is triggering the light, you are gambling with your car, or even your safety. Seriously people, get a CEL checked out, and then decide if you feel it’s worth fixing. Most auto parts stores, dealers, etc. will happily do it for you, often at no cost, but at least be an informed consumer instead of just hoping it will be okay.
Or just buy an obd2 scanner and read the code yourself
VW drivers call that a CEL, or “contains engine light.” As long as it’s lit you know your car still contains an engine.
As a former Land Rover owner, I panicked when the CEL turned out
Bro is getting the most out of his 2006 Honda Civic. He’ll be driving it up until the inevitable heat death of the universe.
2007 Accord and I need to replace the serpentine then it’ll be running perfectly.
My Honda check engine light came on and… it was a faulty check engine light bulb, got it replaced, no more check engine light
My Honda check engine light came on and… it was a faulty check engine light bulb, got it
replacedremoved , no more check engine lightsuspicious_fry.png
I checked; the engines still there. How do I turn the light off?
There is no light on the engine so don’t worry about it.
You’re welcome
Lmao. But in all seriousness taking it in right away or getting a code reader could mean the difference between a $100 fix and a $1200 fix
In all seriousness, keep up on car maintenance. It’s cheaper in the long run that way. And if your CEL ever flashes, get that checked out ASAP. That means there is a much bigger problem such as a misfire or a fueling issue. Both of those could melt or clog your catalytic converters. Those things are big money.
And if your CEL ever flashes, get that checked out ASAP. That means there is a much bigger problem such as a misfire or a fueling issue.
And if you get an oil warning light, pull over and shut the car off immediately (as in, within seconds) or else you’ll need a new engine.
Seriously. I used to work at a car dealership’s service department. One of the technicians was assigned a lady who didn’t have any oil in her car because of some issue. The warranty was going to cover the repair. He told her to have the car towed in. But, no, she was able to get the car started, so she decided to drive it in. The car died in the service lane as we were about to check it in. The warranty wasn’t going to cover a fried engine that was her fault.
Sigh More Jeep stories. Despite regular oil changes and maintenance my Jeep would occasionally just fail to build oil pressure all together when starting. Shutting down and starting again always fixed it, never had any crud in the oil pan, happened 3 or 4 times a year for 12 years. New owner says it still does it.
Get a cheap OBD2 scanner. They cost like €5 for Bluetooth ones and will tell you what error codes you are getting. A lot of them are not serious, and would save you a lot of money.
Seconded. I was freaking out about a week ago. Turns out the gas cap had come unscrewed.
I’ll have to remember this one.
Got about another 85,000 miles before having to think about it again
Or you’re driving a Chevy colorado/GMC Canyon and that light basically just means the engine is running, because it’s been on since the truck had 45k miles and replacing the parts so that the little princess ECU will stop setting codes over a 0.001 deviation from the norm is just a waste of time.
But I wouldn’t know anything about that.
When I got it on my 2018 Civic last year, it turned out that rats had crawled up to the engine compartment and chewed of a cylinder cable.
I still managed to drive to work and to the car repair shop - albeit on low gears.
Man, I drive an older German car, and they take their warning lights seriously. Like if you’re driving to the hospital and the gas light comes on, you’re stopping for gas.
I hope OOP drives a pre-2000s Honda because that’s entirely untrue for anything made in the last few decades
“Last few decades” is a bit of a stretch. The only real issues up until 2005 were regarding the transmissions, and those got fixed in 2006. No significant problems until about 2015 or so when they started to make everything electronic, including key locks and such. The newest generations have been iffy, but my experience with Hondas up until then have been pretty solid, and you’d be hard pressed to find NHTSA recalls of any significant quantity or severity until then. 80% of recalls for Hondas in that era are for airbags (due to age) and exterior light bulbs going out (due to age) and the rest are usually regarding transmissions, with a handful of other parts thrown in.
I won’t say they were as reliable as the 90’s models per se, since those could take significant neglect and still be okay, but most things past that are really down to lack of maintenance for the most part. There will obviously be exceptions to this, but I would still take any Honda from that era over most brands except for Toyota.
Hondas have always had glass transmissions and electrical problems that would make a Jeep blush, they were just so simple and underpowered that it was never much of a problem. That all changed once Toyota kicked them out of the “cheap reliable” bracket and Honda had to make their cars more complex and powerful to compete
The electrical problems are overblown, that was a pretty specific few years (around 2005-2008 if I recall correctly) with a handful more recently with these latest generations.
Transmission have 100% been an issue since the 90’s, but like I said, have been pretty much all fixed (save for a few parking prawl issues) since 2006.
I will always say that Toyota has better reliability though, by far. They’re the golden child for cars staying alive.
See also: Toyota
See
also: ToyotaFTFY.
Seriously, Honda hasn’t made a truly reliable car since the 90s and I feel sorry for OPs shop bill when he enters the “find out” stage of his current “fucking around”
My GF got around the Honda reliability problem when some jerkoff stole her CRV last week. Guy walked up, did some SDR magic, opened the door, started it up and drove away. Both keys were in the house :/
S-Tier security there, Honda.
“I checked, and the engine is there”
