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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: December 9th, 2023

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  • I’ll try and explain what I can, but take it with a grain of salt since I’m far from an expert.

    I’m in Canada where water heaters are required to be set at 140°F by code. I’m just learning from this thread that in the US the temperature setting required on water heaters is lower for some reason, which seems at odds with preventing Legionella bacteria from growing. The manufacturer of the water heaters I install produces them for both America and Canada. The only difference I can see from the website is the thermostats are set at a lower temperature for the American ones. I don’t imagine running your specific tank at a higher temperature would matter either. I believe all electric water heaters are just glass lined steel tanks with the elements and fittings connected. Nothing that stands out as something that a little more heat would cause to fail.

    With your tank only being a year and a half old I don’t see how maintenance could have prevented that element failing. It sounds to me like you just got a bad element from the manufacturer. They are a relatively cheap mass produced part so some duds would be expected. The good news is they won’t break the bank should you need to replace one again. There are water heaters of varying quality too, so I imagine cheaper ones would tend to use cheaper components.

    If you have really bad water and there was lots of minerals settled in the tank (like up to the bottom element) then you might want to look at water treatment options, which would start with a water test to know what you’re even dealing with. I can’t give any advice in that department though.

    Hope that gives more answers than questions lol.



  • Sounds like you had a good idea of what you were doing. I suppose I was making too many assumptions after reading your initial post! As long as you got the job done.

    With a 7 year old heater and that much sediment/deposit it’s definitely water quality. Where I am water heaters can run for 15 years on city water without a flush. I know there are many types of water treatment options for different scenarios, but that’s about the extent of my knowledge. Luckily, it sounds like that’s your area of expertise.

    The 140°F setting is coming from memory so it’s possible that I’m off or that it isn’t a universal setting. I would tend to stick with the manufacturer’s recommendations. I know it’s possible to buy higher temperature rated thermostats then the ones we use though.

    I don’t know how equipped I would’ve been, I’m still just a helper lol.

    Congats and good luck with the new home too!

    EDIT: Just checked the spec sheet of the water heater brand I install. The Canadian models are set to 140°F, but the American ones are set to 125°F. I wonder why there are different standards?


  • I’ve been working installing and servicing water heaters for the last 2 months, so I have a little knowledge to share. I’m still learning so I may get some things wrong.

    We use a transfer pump to drain tanks because gravity draining is super slow and will become even less effective as the water level drops, especially when there is also sediment plugging things up. In both cases you need to let air into the tank so a vacuum isn’t created. You can do this by opening a hot water tap somewhere in the house or by flipping the lever on top of the pressure relief valve. You might have a vacuum breaker on the cold water line above the tank, but I’m not sure how well that can supply air to the top of the tank as the water level drops. I would use one of the other options instead of relying on that.

    You say you’ve installed the new elements, but are still trying to remove the sediment through the drain valve? Why not get the water level down and use a shop vac through the element holes?

    I’m assuming the tank is fairly old if it has sediment like you describe. Around here homeowners insurance will tell you to change them every 15 years. If an old tank leaks and the water destroys anything in your home it may not be covered. If your tank is in rough shape you’d probably want to change it proactively anyway, they will fail eventually.

    A note on changing the temperature setting of the thermostats. You’re not supposed to tamper with them. The ones I install are set to 140°F. I’ve been told this is a WHO standard to ensure nothing can grow in the tank. Aside from that, by lowering the temperature you are just decreasing the amount of hot water that’s available and you will run out quicker.

    I could probably go on, but this is already information overload lol.

    EDIT: typo






  • Windows is becoming more of a shit show everyday, comically so. Glad I finally installed Linux Mint today. I’ve used Windows exclusively up until now and just quit cold turkey, putting Mint on my daily driver. I was hesitant to upend my computer habits by swapping OS, but I should have done this ages ago. I’m sure I’ll run into some kind of issue sooner than later, but I’ll take a technical problem over one manufactured by a corporation’s greed any day.