I just finished setting up a custom router with dns ad blocking. Next comes a media player so I can purge this smart TV filth from my household.

Huge shout out to Louis Rossmann and the FUTO communuty contributors, check out the wiki on self-hosted software if you haven’t already.

Wiki link

  • bluelander@lemmy.ml
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    11 minutes ago

    I bought a new TV last year after my Hisense kicked the bucket and had a similar experience.

    Not sure if it applies to your situation, but I just factory reset my TV, never enabled wifi, and hooked up a smart device I had lying around (Nvidia Shield). Now it all works great and if the smart functions upset me I can throw just the smart TV part in the trash and go back to my VCR.

  • mel@jlai.lu
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    2
    ·
    50 minutes ago

    For now I have an androidTV but I guess that whent I have time, it will be HDMI only (androidTV is quite buggy on it) and after that, I will look for a dumbTV

  • Dickarus@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    14
    arrow-down
    1
    ·
    edit-2
    3 hours ago

    A cheap computer/laptop. HDMI cable. Ublock origin (sprinkle some sponserblock and privacy badger in there). A TV that is never connected to the internet. Voila. No ads. None. Zilch. Zero. Ad free.

    Streaming platforms that have gone to ad supported formats make me laugh because it’s just a 3-5 second black screen, not the ad, and it’s back to the content. Been doing it for decades. Don’t sit there and get reamed by their bullshit.

    • brrt@sh.itjust.works
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      8 minutes ago

      AFAIK this will only get you 720p to 1080p depending on the streaming service. No 4K, no HDR.

        • notfromhere@lemmy.ml
          link
          fedilink
          arrow-up
          4
          ·
          3 hours ago

          Detailed instructions for things like this will need to documented. It starts with ads… does it evolve into 1984? Who knows, but it seems more likely in light of recent events.

          • YerbaYerba@lemm.ee
            link
            fedilink
            arrow-up
            1
            ·
            1 hour ago

            I agree. I could see manufacturers add anti tamper features that could brick the device if opened if people started doing this anyway.

            • qaz@lemmy.world
              link
              fedilink
              English
              arrow-up
              1
              ·
              35 minutes ago

              That’s unlikely, the additional R&D cost probably won’t weigh up to the costs incurred by the small minority that removes it.

  • some_guy@lemmy.sdf.org
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    3
    ·
    edit-2
    3 hours ago

    People who don’t have the tech chops for self-hosting can also check the market for shop displays (like you’d see above the counter in a fast food joint). Those are “dumb” displays, no ads bs built-in because they aren’t expected to be used outside of a commercial environment.

    They cost more than smart tvs because the ads subsidize consumer models. Rather, they cost as much as tvs this size really cost (after markup). $1700 is not realistic for a huge screen if it didn’t have ads. Also, fuck ads.

  • buddascrayon@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    22
    ·
    6 hours ago

    I made my Smart TV into a dumb TV by never activating the smart TV functions. And then I plugged a relatively cheap computer into it. So I don’t have this kind of problem.

    • Glitterbomb@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      16 minutes ago

      Your grandma does.

      I installed her TV and internet last week. She barely understands the concept of switching TV inputs, and her Roku smart TV doesn’t let you rename inputs from HDMI1 to [ISP NAME] unless the thing is connected to the internet. It also defaults out of the box to show the smart TV bullshit every single time you turn it on, instead of just showing the last used input before the TV turned off. So she’s completely baffled how to watch simple television channels unless I spend 10 minutes reconfiguring this garbage so it’s usable.

      Go visit your grandma, everyone. And reconfigure her smart TV. I’m joking but I’m not. I can only visit so many grandmas per day.

    • CaptPretentious@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      1 hour ago

      Which only works for now. They’ve already gotten you to be ok with the upcharge price for the “smart” hardware. Soon they’re going to require online activation for “reasons”. So choosing to not connect it won’t work. And they’ll do regular ad connection checks and if it fails to update ads after so much time the TV will prompt an error to please correct the network.

      Hate it all you want, it’s going to happen.

    • _stranger_@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      3
      ·
      edit-2
      3 hours ago

      I have a very old 4K Toshiba TV with a built in “smart browser” that, due to me never plugging into the Internet, has a home page with news about how well Obama’s doing in the polls for being a relatively unknown junior senator.

  • wazoobi@lemm.ee
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    3 hours ago

    I’m trying to understand why this is marked as NSFW… I must be missing something?

    The intrusion of ads is annoying AF, I agree. I’ll have to look into that link for DNS ad-blocking, thanks!

  • GooseFinger@sh.itjust.worksOP
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    3
    ·
    4 hours ago

    Oh, and if anyone knows why pfBlockerNG might fail to update some DNSBL AND IPv4 feeds during cron events, I’d be forever grateful. I’m getting tired of my router crashing every hour.

  • SlapnutsGT@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    5
    ·
    5 hours ago

    I recently took my brand new stupid fucking tv off the grid. I use Apple TV so not a big deal with the ads and shit but the damn thing forced an update mid movie, reset, and black screened. Couldn’t get it back on and went to bed, figured I’d deal with it in the morning. Luckily it worked the next day after that no more internet for you.

    • ShepherdPie@midwest.social
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      3
      ·
      5 hours ago

      If you think that’s bad, my Denon receiver had to update itself which for some reason fails 100% of the time when using wifi so I had to find the longest ethernet cable I have to connect into the back (or disconnect 20+ wires from the back to move it closer to the network switch) so that it could finish downloading the firmware and complete the update before it would start working again.

  • richardisaguy@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    6
    ·
    edit-2
    7 hours ago

    Get a cheap computer and connect the tv to it; get a mouse and bluetooth keyboard or an air mouse if your want to; install kodi perhaps, or just have your bare desktop. Problem solved

    Disconnect the tv to wifi too.

    • TheOSINTguy@sh.itjust.works
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      6 hours ago

      There are some cheap Bluetooth TV remotes so if you want to take some time out of your day, there’s a few Linux distros that ship with similar GUI to some TV’s.

  • Disable all internet functionality, set the time to the 1990s to prevent many timers from going off, attach the tv to another device that doesn’t have ads via your cable of choice. But why was your smart tv 1700? Did it have some special features?